Sunday,
July 18, 2010
Linda
Cole was able to get on the Forest Service’s web
site this morning and get us reservations for Anan
Bay Bear Observatory for Monday.
We
departed Wrangell at 0914 and cruised around the
east side of Wrangell Island in Eastern Passage,
through the Narrows, then down Blake Channel to Berg
Bay. We
arrived in Berg Bay at 1131 and dropped the anchor
in 50 feet of water just off the Forest Service
float with 180 feet of chain.
MouseTrap rafted and we launched the shore
boats to crab and fish the bay and Blake Channel.
The
sun is out today and the winds are very light.
The seas were flat so everyone enjoyed the
ride to Berg Bay.
Berg Bay is a very quiet anchorage with snow
covered mountains in the distance, a lone forest
service cabin that people rent and a steep shore
line. Late
in the afternoon, two fathers and their sons arrived
by boat and set up camp in the cabin.
Our
crab pots did not yield any keepers and the fishing
was unsuccessful.
Fred and Linda did encounter a young moose on
the shore line.
The moose just stood there and looked at them
while they came closer and took photos.
Today’s
Distance: 21
nm
Distance to date:
1,556 nm
Monday,
July 19, 2010
After
a leisurely morning, we departed Berg Bay at 0949
and cruised down Blake Channel, towing the dinghy,
to Anan Bay. The
sun is out, the wind is light from the south, and
seas are calm with a slight ripple.
We arrived at Anan Bay at 1115, found a spot
to anchor, and proceeded to go by dinghy to the
ranger station to check in, pay our $10 per person
fee, and take the tour of the Bear Observatory.
Anchoring
outside Anan Bay is a little tricky, as the shore
line is on about a 45 degree angle, with a sharp
drop off to very deep water.
We were lucky that the wind was blowing from
the west, so it was like having a stern line to
shore. Even
though I dropped the anchor in 45 feet of water with
90 feet of chain, we were in 13 feet of water when
the chain was stretched.
I
took Shirley and Linda Cole in to shore while Fred
tended to the boats.
As we were arriving ashore, our friends, the
Soffels from Windy-I and QCYC arrived by guide boat
from Wrangell.
Since the other couple had a medical
emergency and had to cancel their guide boat, they
offered to have us accompany them up to the
observatory. That
way we had an armed guide and the knowledge of the
guide to share information with us.
Brenda, the guide, grew up in the area and is
very knowledgeable, as well as being a guide and
noted artist in Wrangell.
She watercolors on marine charts in the
winter when there is no guide business.
The
mile walk up to the observatory is mostly a 2-foot
wide wooden path with wire or roofing material to
keep it from being slippery.
As we walked as round the lagoon where Anan
Creek empties into the sound, we could see plenty of
signs of bear, lots of eagles, ducks, and heron, as
well as the remnants of the former Indian fishing
grounds.
As
we got to about 50 yards from the observatory
platform, we had to stop and wait for the ranger in
the observatory to scout the area and give us the go
ahead signal before proceeding.
We were crossing the bear’s highway to the
stream. All
was clear, so we proceeded.
Once
we were in the observatory platform, it was obvious
why this is a MUST stop for anyone in this area.
The black bears were everywhere, fishing for
salmon, climbing trees with their catch, sitting on
rocks eating their catch, or protecting their
territory from other bears.
We watched one mother bear with her cub
trying to find a place to fish, but after some teeth
clattering with a bigger bear, she and the cub
retreated. The
cub finally got so scared, that it went up the
hillside and we didn’t see it again.
One small bear sat in a tree eating his
salmon, then cleaned his paws and did a lot of
scratching on the tree trunk.
All the time, an eagle was sitting about 10
feet from him on the same branch looking for any
leftovers.
We
signed up for the lower platform photo area, which
is right next to the falls where the bear fish.
As we walked down the camouflaged steps,
there was a bear sitting next to the steps, about 18
inches from us eating his salmon.
Once down to the photo area, which is
basically a duck blind with small opening that you
can photo from, were were able to see and photo the
bears up close.
Just
as were were getting ready to leave, a brown
(grizzly) showed up to fish.
When the brown bears show up, the black bears
get out of the way.
This brown was about 400 pounds and 3 years
old. What
a difference between how the browns and the blacks
fish. Where
the black bears seem to be careful to not get any
wetter than necessary and want to cling to the
rocks, the brown bear just gets into the water and
catches his fish.
I think the brown caught 4 fish in the same
time that it takes the blacks to catch one.
We
walked back to the shore boat and proceeded to get
ready to continue on to our anchorage for the night.
We weighed anchor at 1419 and cruised on a
slow bell down Bradfield Canal and Seward Passage to
Santa Anna Inlet to anchor for the night.
The wind has picked up to 10-15 this
afternoon, so towing the dinghy was a little rough.
We arrived at Santa Anna Inlet at 1630 and
rafted to MouseTrap.
Santa
Anna Inlet is a very protected anchorage with a lake
at the head, which is a very short walk from the
creek outlet. We
tried crabbing and some light fishing, but no luck.
There were three other boats that used this
anchorage for the night.
Today’s
Distance: 25
nm
Distance to date:
1,581 nm
Tuesday,
July 20, 2010
We
departed the anchored raft in Santa Anna Inlet at
0846 and motored out to Ernest Sound to cruise
southwest to Clarence Strait and into Myers Chuck,
arriving at 1125.
The seas were rippled and we had a light
southwesterly wind of 5-10 knots.
The skies were clear and the sun was shining
bright.
On
arrival to Myers Chuck, we found space on the state
dock and moored for the day and night.
We were greeted by one of the locals who was
working on his fishing vessel.
There is no power on the state dock, but
everything is very clean and tidy.
After
we were moored, 4 small boats from Florida came in
to tie up for lunch.
They had trucked their boats 4,000 miles to
Prince Rupert and were doing Alaska, some for the 8th
time, others for the 1st time.
Following a quick lunch break, they departed
and a 48’ DeFever Tricabin, Sun Chaser V, came in
and tied to the dock.
We met Tom and Jan White from Salt Lake City
and went for a walk with them to explore Myers
Chuck.
There
is a trail marked by sawdust that leads to a great
vista of Clarence Strait all the way to Dixon
Entrance. On
the trail, we met Sean, a local who is building a
house on the outer island.
He invited us to inspect his work and the
view he has from his pride and joy.
The house sits on top of an island just
outside Myers Chuck and has fantastic views of
Clarence Strait.
Sean said that the wind sometimes blows up to
100 mph in the winter, so he has to put Lexan covers
on his windows to keep the flotsam in the water from
flying up and breaking his windows.
He only has battery power, but likes it that
way. His
permanent home is in Ketchikan, but he likes to
spend time out here in Myers Chuck where the
population is 6-8 in the winter and 28 in the
summer.
It’s
interesting that the post office is only open on
Wednesday for 1-hour, just after the float plane
delivers the mail pouch to the city dock.
Kathy, the postmaster is retiring this year
and they can’t find anyone to take her place, so
everyone may just have to go to the dock and check
for their mail after the float plane leaves its
pouch of mail.
On
our walk back from Sean’s house, we were greeted
by one of the residents who offered to open the
gallery. We
took her up on her offer and our group bought a few
local artist creations.
It
was a beautiful day, so we had our cocktail hour on
the dock with the Coles and White’s, then
barbequed hamburgers for a light dinner.
Late in the evening, a westerly wind
developed and the forecast for the next few days is
not good. Hopefully,
we will be able to start at 0430 in the morning and
make the trip to Ketchikan before the wind and seas
build up too much.
Today’s
Distance: 23
nm
Distance to date:
1,504 nm
Wednesday,
July 21, 2010
Last
night’s wind calmed down during the night and it
is quite calm this morning as we depart Myers Chuck
at 0439 for our cruise down Clarence Strait and
across Behm Channel to Tongass Narrows and
Ketchikan.
We
cruised at our fast speed of 10 knots in a following
sea of 1-2 foot swells from the winds of last night.
With the combination of following seas and an
ebb tide, we made good 11 knots on our way to
Ketchikan. Enroute,
we encountered two Alaska State Ferries and a cruise
ship in Clarence Strait.
We
arrived in Ketchikan at 0807 and called the
harbormaster for a berthing assignment.
They put us in Bar Harbor on the north end of
town this time, Dock 10, slip 21.
I like this harbor better than the Thomas
Basin downtown.
We don’t have to deal with the cruise ship
customers, busy shops full of tourists, and we have
Safeway and Alaskan and Proud grocery stores nearby.
We
walked to the Safeway and mall, inspected the
Laundromat, and returned to the boat.
Then it was time for doing laundry.
After laundry, we walked north to the Alaska
& Proud grocery to pick up supplies.
For dinner, we walked to the Best Western
Motel, about 6 blocks north and ate at Jerimiah’s
Pub in the motel complex.
Good food, friendly service, and good prices.
Today’s
Distance: 34
nm
Distance to date:
1,538 nm
Thursday,
July 22, 2010
We
motored over to the fuel dock, just north of Bar
Harbor, and took on 370 gallons of diesel and filled
the empty outboard reserve tank.
Upon returning to our slip on Dock 10, we
filled the water tanks and changed fuel filters.
We are now ready to head south, check in to
Canadian Customs, and spend some time in British
Columbia.
In
the afternoon, we took the bus downtown to shop for
Alaska gifts to take home.
Following the shopping, we stopped at the
Pirates Cove pub for fish and chips.
Don and Carolee Larson, Carolee’s sister
Karma and her husband Dan, and Fred and Linda Cole
joined us for dinner.
After dinner, we took a cab back to Bar
Harbor.
The
weather report for the next few days does not sound
good, so we may be in Ketchikan for a while.
The latest report for Dixon Entrance is for
10-12 seas and 35 knot southeast wind, so we won’t
want to have any part of that.
Hopefully, we will be able to stay here in
Bar Harbor.
Friday,
July 23, 2010
The
forecasted storm came in last night with heavy rain,
lots of southeast wind with gust to 25 knots here in
the slip. The
entire fishing fleet is returning this morning
looking for moorage and the harbormaster is doing a
yeoman’s job of finding a spot for everyone.
It’s amazing how accommodating the
harbormaster’s office is to make sure everyone
gets a place to tie up during a storm.
Looking out into Tongass Narrows from our
slip, I can see 2 foot breakers hitting the
breakwater to Bar Harbor.
I
called the first thing this morning and asked to
stay here until the storm passes and was given
permission. I
think we will just have a lazy day here on the boat
reading.
From
the weather reports, it appears that we may not be
able to head south until Sunday at the earliest.
Friday,
July 23, 2010
The
forecasted storm came in last night with heavy
rain, lots of southeast wind with gust to 25 knots
here in the slip.
The entire fishing fleet is returning this
morning looking for moorage and the harbormaster
is doing a yeoman’s job of finding a spot for
everyone. It’s
amazing how accommodating the harbormaster’s
office is to make sure everyone gets a place to
tie up during a storm.
Looking out into Tongass Narrows from our
slip, I can see 2 foot breakers hitting the
breakwater to Bar Harbor.
I
called the first thing this morning and asked to
stay here until the storm passes and was given
permission. I
think we will just have a lazy day here on the
boat reading.
From
the weather reports, it appears that we may not be
able to head south until Sunday at the earliest.
We
spent the day watching movies and getting the boat
ready for rough seas. Everything is battened down
for the worst.
Saturday,
July 24, 2010
The
weather reports for Dixon Entrance looks good
enough that we will try for at least Foggy Bay.
The sky is cloudy with a few sun breaks and
the winds are 5-10 from the SE and the seas are
rippled. A
high pressure is expected to begin moving in and
the wind is supposed to turn to a northwesterly.
We
paid our moorage when the harbormaster’s office
opened at 0800 and departed Bar Harbor at 0811.
We cruised down Tongass Narrows at a slow
speed until past the Coast Guard Station, then
increased to 10 knots for the duration of our
trip.
As
we cruised down Revillagigedo Channel, the seas
began to pick up to 1-2 foot swells and the wind
picked up to 10-15 knots from the southeast.
Very comfortable ride, so we decided to
continue on to Dixon Entrance and Foggy Bay.
As we approached Foggy Bay, the seas seemed
the same, so we decided to push on to Prince
Rupert.
As
we rounded Tree Point the seas picked up to 3-4
foot swells from the starboard beam with
occasional 5 footers.
Our choice was to turn in to Nakat Bay or
continue on.
We figured that it was about the same
distance to Nakat Bay as to the protection of
Dundas Island, so we continued on.
Once behind Dundas Island, the seas became
much more manageable.
As we cuised down the east side of Dundas
past Green Island Lighthouse and into Chatham
Sound, the seas calmed down and the wind was down
to 3-4 knots from the southeast.
We
transited Metlakatla and Venn Passage on our way
to Prince Rupert, arriving at 1819.
We lost an hour as we entered Canada and
went back to Pacific Daylight Time.
All of the marinas in Prince Rupert were
full, but I was able to find a space at the yacht
club to tie up and call Customs.
We received our clearance number
(20102050821) and departed for the other side of
the harbor to anchor for the night.
We found a nice spot just northwest of Venn
Passage and dropped the hook in 30 feet of water
with 90 feet of chain.
There is only one other boat here, a
sailboat from Port Angeles.
Today’s
Distance: 85
nm
Distance to date: 1,623 nm
Sunday,
July 25, 2010
During
the morning engine room check, I discovered that
we had broken loose a lot of sludge from the fuel
tanks. I
drained the main filters until clear and prepared
to depart Prince.
We
weighed anchor at 0947 and headed for Lowe Inlet
on Grenville Channel.
Cruising at 1100 rpm through Prince Rupert
Harbor until past the Coast Guard station, then we
increased speed to to 1500 rpm and 8.5 knots.
As
we cleared the harbor and entered Chatham Sound
the west winds of 10 knots were creating 1-2 foot
swells off the starboard beam, making passage
uncomfortable.
We increased speed to 10 knots to get
through Chatham and shorten the time required to
get into more favorable conditions.
After
passing the Lawyer Islands, the seas became more
on our starboard quarter and much more
comfortable.
As we entered Grenville Channel, the seas
switched to behind us with 1-2 foot swells and
winds that reached 25 knots at time.
With this tailwind and an ebbing current,
we were making 11 knots good as we went down
Grenville. Near
Baker Inlet, we encountered a north bound Holland
America cruise ship at 18 knots and had to deal
with its wake in the narrow channel.
We
entered Lowe Inlet at 1530 and cruised up to
Nettle Basin to anchor for the night.
We wanted to anchor in front of the
waterfalls, but another boat had that spot, so we
moved a little to the west and anchored in 31 feet
of water with 90 feet of chain.
The wind is quite strong, so MouseTrap set
their own anchor for the night.
Winds reached 28 knots while at anchor, but
the anchor seems to be holding.
As
we were scoping out where to drop the anchor, we
noticed that there were a couple of black bears
trying to catch the fish as they jumped to make it
up the falls.
Each of the black bears seemed to be young
and were not having much luck, but they did
provide us with some entertainment.
The fish are plentiful in the bay, with
salmon jumping all around the boat.
Of course this area is off limits for
salmon fishing, as it is right in front of their
spawning grounds.
Today’s
Distance: 57
nm
Distance to date:
1,680 nm
Monday,
July 26, 2010
After
a night of wind at anchor and today’s weather
forecast for 20-30 knot northwest winds on the
coast for the next 4-5 days, we decided to make an
early departure for Khutze Inlet.
We weighed anchor at 0500 in the dark and
cruised down Grenville Channel, across Wright
Sound, up McKay Reach and down Princess Royal
Channel to Khutze Inlet.
The days must be getting shorter, as
previous starts at 0430 were at sunbreak.
We
had a brisk 20 knot wind behind us as we came down
Grenville with about 2 knots of current to help us
also. Once
we began crossing Wright Sound, the wind shifted
to 10 knots from the east which caused us to have
1-2 foot beam seas during the crossing.
Once across Wright Sound, the wind subsided
and we had pleasant cruising water the rest of the
way. Despite
the current arrows on the charts, the current was
just the opposite and we enjoyed favorable
currents until just before the entrance to Khutze
Inlet.
We
stopped at 0932 to inspect Butedale and see if
they have made any efforts to improve the
facilities. The
welcome sign is still on the pier, but there is
also a “private property” sign near the
gangway. It
doesn’t look like anything is happening at
Butedale, as the dilapidated and crumpling
buildings are still as they have been for years.
There were a few derelict boats at the
dock, but we saw no signs of life.
Even the waterfalls, which is usually so
magnificent seems to have less water flowing.
We took a few photos and left.
We
arrived in Khutze and rafted to MouseTrap for the
night. We
were immediately met by thousands of big black
flies that clung to anything that moved.
At one time I think I had over a hundred
flies attached to my jeans.
We broke out the screens and went inside as
soon as possible.
It is a beautiful day here in Khutze, as
the sun is out and there is virtually no wind.
The calming sound of the waterfall behind
us makes this a peaceful anchorage.
We
finally got up enough courage to fend off the
flies, launch the dinghy and set our crab and
prawn pots. Then,
we took the dinghy up the Khutze River until we
got to the sandbar that made navigating the river
difficult and turned around.
We saw no bears fishing the river, but
there were lots of seals having a meal on the fish
returning to the lake above.
Our crab pots yielded our limit of huge
Dungeness crab.
We re-set the crab pots to leave out over
night.
Today’s
Distance: 54
nm
Distance to date:
1,734 nm
Tuesday,
July 27, 2010
It
is another nice day here in Khutze Inlet.
There are broken clouds, but plenty of
sunshine. The
first thing I discovered this morning was that
someone stole one of my crab pots.
The other pot did not have any crab and I
suspect that someone emptied the pot but didn’t
have room to steal both pots.
There were a couple of boats anchored near
my crab pots that left early this morning.
I saw them tending to their crab pots, but
did not keep a close eye on them.
My
prawn pot did not have any prawn, but Fred had 9
prawns in his pot, which was set a little closer
to shore than mine.
I re-set my pot closer to shore in about
250 feet of water.
I then cleaned the crab from yesterday so
Shirley could cook them.
We will pick the crab tonight after the sun
starts to go down and the flies depart for their
home.
After
the crab was picked, the crab pot and prawn pot
were picked up, we loaded the dinghy for
tomorrow’s cruise to Rescue Bay.
Wednesday,
July 28, 2010
We
departed Khutze Inlet at 0700 to move to Rescue
Bay. The
skies are overcast and there is a light south wind
of 5-10 knots.
We will pick up the ebb current to help us
as we transit Graham Reach and Tolmie Channels.
Saturday,
July 24, 2010
The
weather reports for Dixon Entrance looks good enough
that we will try for at least Foggy Bay.
The sky is cloudy with a few sun breaks and
the winds are 5-10 from the SE and the seas are
rippled. A
high pressure is expected to begin moving in and the
wind is supposed to turn to a northwesterly.
We
paid our moorage when the harbormaster’s office
opened at 0800 and departed Bar Harbor at 0811.
We cruised down Tongass Narrows at a slow
speed until past the Coast Guard Station, then
increased to 10 knots for the duration of our trip.
As
we cruised down Revillagigedo Channel, the seas
began to pick up to 1-2 foot swells and the wind
picked up to 10-15 knots from the southeast.
Very comfortable ride, so we decided to
continue on to Dixon Entrance and Foggy Bay.
As we approached Foggy Bay, the seas seemed
the same, so we decided to push on to Prince Rupert.
As
we rounded Tree Point the seas picked up to 3-4 foot
swells from the starboard beam with occasional 5
footers. Our
choice was to turn in to Nakat Bay or continue on.
We figured that it was about the same
distance to Nakat Bay as to the protection of Dundas
Island, so we continued on.
Once behind Dundas Island, the seas became
much more manageable.
As we cuised down the east side of Dundas
past Green Island Lighthouse and into Chatham Sound,
the seas calmed down and the wind was down to 3-4
knots from the southeast.
We
transited Metlakatla and Venn Passage on our way to
Prince Rupert, arriving at 1819.
We lost an hour as we entered Canada and went
back to Pacific Daylight Time.
All of the marinas in Prince Rupert were
full, but I was able to find a space at the yacht
club to tie up and call Customs.
We received our clearance number
(20102050821) and departed for the other side of the
harbor to anchor for the night.
We found a nice spot just northwest of Venn
Passage and dropped the hook in 30 feet of water
with 90 feet of chain.
There is only one other boat here, a sailboat
from Port Angeles.
Today’s
Distance: 85
nm
Distance to date: 1,623 nm
Sunday,
July 25, 2010
During
the morning engine room check, I discovered that we
had broken loose a lot of sludge from the fuel
tanks. I
drained the main filters until clear and prepared to
depart Prince.
We
weighed anchor at 0947 and headed for Lowe Inlet on
Grenville Channel.
Cruising at 1100 rpm through Prince Rupert
Harbor until past the Coast Guard station, then we
increased speed to to 1500 rpm and 8.5 knots.
As
we cleared the harbor and entered Chatham Sound the
west winds of 10 knots were creating 1-2 foot swells
off the starboard beam, making passage
uncomfortable.
We increased speed to 10 knots to get through
Chatham and shorten the time required to get into
more favorable conditions.
After
passing the Lawyer Islands, the seas became more on
our starboard quarter and much more comfortable.
As we entered Grenville Channel, the seas
switched to behind us with 1-2 foot swells and winds
that reached 25 knots at time.
With this tailwind and an ebbing current, we
were making 11 knots good as we went down Grenville.
Near Baker Inlet, we encountered a north
bound Holland America cruise ship at 18 knots and
had to deal with its wake in the narrow channel.
We
entered Lowe Inlet at 1530 and cruised up to Nettle
Basin to anchor for the night.
We wanted to anchor in front of the
waterfalls, but another boat had that spot, so we
moved a little to the west and anchored in 31 feet
of water with 90 feet of chain.
The wind is quite strong, so MouseTrap set
their own anchor for the night.
Winds reached 28 knots while at anchor, but
the anchor seems to be holding.
As
we were scoping out where to drop the anchor, we
noticed that there were a couple of black bears
trying to catch the fish as they jumped to make it
up the falls. Each
of the black bears seemed to be young and were not
having much luck, but they did provide us with some
entertainment.
The fish are plentiful in the bay, with
salmon jumping all around the boat.
Of course this area is off limits for salmon
fishing, as it is right in front of their spawning
grounds.
Today’s
Distance: 57
nm
Distance to date:
1,680 nm
Monday,
July 26, 2010
After
a night of wind at anchor and today’s weather
forecast for 20-30 knot northwest winds on the coast
for the next 4-5 days, we decided to make an early
departure for Khutze Inlet.
We weighed anchor at 0500 in the dark and
cruised down Grenville Channel, across Wright Sound,
up McKay Reach and down Princess Royal Channel to
Khutze Inlet. The
days must be getting shorter, as previous starts at
0430 were at sunbreak.
We
had a brisk 20 knot wind behind us as we came down
Grenville with about 2 knots of current to help us
also. Once
we began crossing Wright Sound, the wind shifted to
10 knots from the east which caused us to have 1-2
foot beam seas during the crossing.
Once across Wright Sound, the wind subsided
and we had pleasant cruising water the rest of the
way. Despite
the current arrows on the charts, the current was
just the opposite and we enjoyed favorable currents
until just before the entrance to Khutze Inlet.
We
stopped at 0932 to inspect Butedale and see if they
have made any efforts to improve the facilities.
The welcome sign is still on the pier, but
there is also a “private property” sign near the
gangway. It
doesn’t look like anything is happening at
Butedale, as the dilapidated and crumpling buildings
are still as they have been for years.
There were a few derelict boats at the dock,
but we saw no signs of life.
Even the waterfalls, which is usually so
magnificent seems to have less water flowing.
We took a few photos and left.
We
arrived in Khutze and rafted to MouseTrap for the
night. We
were immediately met by thousands of big black flies
that clung to anything that moved.
At one time I think I had over a hundred
flies attached to my jeans.
We broke out the screens and went inside as
soon as possible.
It is a beautiful day here in Khutze, as the
sun is out and there is virtually no wind.
The calming sound of the waterfall behind us
makes this a peaceful anchorage.
We
finally got up enough courage to fend off the flies,
launch the dinghy and set our crab and prawn pots.
Then, we took the dinghy up the Khutze River
until we got to the sandbar that made navigating the
river difficult and turned around.
We saw no bears fishing the river, but there
were lots of seals having a meal on the fish
returning to the lake above.
Our crab pots yielded our limit of huge
Dungeness crab.
We re-set the crab pots to leave out over
night.
Today’s
Distance: 54
nm
Distance to date:
1,734 nm
Tuesday,
July 27, 2010
It
is another nice day here in Khutze Inlet.
There are broken clouds, but plenty of
sunshine. The
first thing I discovered this morning was that
someone stole one of my crab pots.
The other pot did not have any crab and I
suspect that someone emptied the pot but didn’t
have room to steal both pots.
There were a couple of boats anchored near my
crab pots that left early this morning.
I saw them tending to their crab pots, but
did not keep a close eye on them.
My
prawn pot did not have any prawn, but Fred had 9
prawns in his pot, which was set a little closer to
shore than mine.
I re-set my pot closer to shore in about 250
feet of water.
I then cleaned the crab from yesterday so
Shirley could cook them.
We will pick the crab tonight after the sun
starts to go down and the flies depart for their
home.
After
the crab was picked, the crab pot and prawn pot were
picked up, we loaded the dinghy for tomorrow’s
cruise to Rescue Bay.
Wednesday,
July 28, 2010
We
departed Khutze Inlet at 0700 to move to Rescue Bay.
The skies are overcast and there is a light
south wind of 5-10 knots.
We will pick up the ebb current to help us as
we transit Graham Reach and Tolmie Channels.
We
arrived at Klemtu at 1113 and slowed to 800 rpms to
minimize wake and to give us time to check emails
and call home, as the cell service at Klemtu is
excellent Wedge Rock at the north end to the south
end of Cone Island.
At the south end of Cone Island we increased
to 8.5 knot speed and proceeded across Finlayson
Channel to Jackson Pass.
We arrived at Rescue Bay at 1259 and anchored
in 41 feet of water with 90 feet of chain.
MouseTrap rafted for the night.
There
are 4 other boats at anchor in Rescue Bay for the
night, plus one young lady who is camping on the
shore. She
is from Vancouver and is rowing from Prince Rupert
to Vancouver or for three week, whichever is
shorter. She
said she was having problems with her boat, so had
to have a tow from a passing tug boat yesterday, but
may have the problem fixed.
Her next stop is Shearwater where they can
make permanent repairs.
One of the other boats in the harbor is a
beautiful sailboat “Princess” from San
Francisco. The
owner said he had the boat shipped to Anacortes in
April so they could sail BC and Alaska.
They are on their way south.
He is a past commodore from St. Francis Yacht
Club. I
reminded him that PCYA has the Horder award painting
hanging in their entry.
I
did a small fiberglas repair on the dinghy, then
launched the kayak to take a couple trips around the
harbor.
Today’s
Distance: 48
nm
Distance to date:
1,782 nm
Thursday,
July 29, 2010
MouseTrap
departed our raft at 0600 to head for Bella Bella
and fuel. We
weighed anchor at 0707 and headed down Mathieson
Channel in a light fog with little wind.
As we passed Jermine Point on Dowager Island,
we spotted the young lady in her row boat, just
inside the small island on the point.
She seemed to be making pretty good progress.
At
0844, we crossed Milbanke Sound and received
moderate ocean swells, then entered Reid Passage and
proceeded to Ivory Island before heading east in
Seaforth Channel.
Seaforth Channel was pretty calm with just
moderate ocean swells for the first couple of miles,
then a rippled sea. Just
after passing Harmston Island, we decided to alter
our route and take Gunboat Passage over to Fisher
Channel. We
entered the west narrow section of Gunboat at 1128
and slowed to a no wake speed, then proceeded to the
east narrows where we again reduced speed, clearing
Gunboat Passage at 1154.
We then proceeded up Fisher Channel and
Cousins Inlet to Ocean Falls, arriving at 1349.
We
moored at the community dock with a little help from
some of the other boats that were already moored.
The wind was blowing about 15 knots away from
the dock and getting the boat to the dock was quite
a chore. After
mooring, we helped Mike and Betty from the Paramour
of Seattle. We
also met Jim and Joy from the Kimjie, a Royal
Vancouver YC boat.
They live on Saltpring Island and have been
longtime members.
They have many memories of our old pal Tommy
Trap from Vancouver.
They said Tommy was quite a colorful
character around the yacht club for many years
before his death.
Later
in the afternoon, MouseTrap arrived and moored at
the community dock.
We all took a walk to the top of the dam and
took photos of the spillwater.
Ocean Falls is a ghost town that has been
trying to make a comeback.
After the pulp mill closed in 1980, most of
the old homes have been torn down and removed.
The dam still continues to provide power to
Ocean Falls, Bella Bella and Shearwater.
The only other industry in town is a smolt
operation on the south side of the bay where they
raise smolt for the fish farms.
The 40 full time residents at Ocean Falls
continue to paint the remaining buildings, keep the
place tidy, operate the dock and generally try to
make the town active again.
At
1930, the church bells rang to announce the start of
the community annual meeting where they were to
elect new directors and discuss various topics.
The wharfinger told us that they are
requesting new docks from the federal government,
but it may be a couple of years before they get
them. There
is a small shack on the shore side of the dock where
visitors can sit and look over some of the old
newspapers of time past, see before and after
photos, use their internet connection, or just sit
and play games.
The shack is never locked up.
The lower half of the door is the only thing
closed, but that is just to keep the otters from
coming in and reading the books (that’s what the
sign says).
The
docks are in good condition and they have 30 amp
shore power available.
Moorage was $23.25 per night, plus $8 for
electricity. A
very reasonable sum for BC facilities.
Today’s
Distance: 53
nm
Distance to date:
1,835 nm
Friday,
July 30, 2010
We
made an early departure from Ocean Falls in the dark
and fog at 0453 and cruised down Cousins Inlet,
Fisher Channel and Fitz Hugh Sound on our way to
Fury Island, or possibly around Cape Caution if
weather conditions are ok.
The
fog varied from ¼ mile visibility to over a mile.
The wind was light from the south and the
seas were flat calm.
As we got to the south end of Fitz Hugh Sound
and into Queen Charlotte Strait, we began to pick up
the ocean swells, but very manageable.
We decided to go ahead and try to round Cape
Caution with the option of bailing out if conditions
changed. As
we got just past Rivers Inlet, conditions changed
drastically. The
wind shifted to the southwest at 15-20 knots and the
ocean swells became 4 and 5 footers with a wind chop
on the top. We
diverted to Rivers Inlet and put into Goose Bay to
anchor for the night.
We dropped the hook at 1239 in 32 feet of
water in the south end of Goose Bay with 90 feet of
chain, then received MouseTrap.
As
I was dropping the anchor, Shirley said we must be
over a rock, as the depth went from 32 feet to 15
feet as the boat swung.
I told her there was no rock in this area.
We soon learned what had made the depth
sounder to give us this reading as a hump back whale
that had gone under the boat surfaced right off our
port side. The
whale continued to give us quite a show as it dived
for food and surfaced in the bay.
Goose
Bay gave us good protection from the wind and is a
quiet anchorage.
At the entrance to the bay is the Duncanby
Lodge with all of it’s fishing guides taking
customers out to fish, which makes that end of the
harbor very busy.
We will stay here until conditions improve to
round Cape Caution.
Today’s
Distance: 68
nm
Distance to date:
1,903 nm
Saturday,
July 31, 2010
We
awoke at 0400 to check the weather reports.
Egg Island was reporting 12 knot
southwest winds and 1-2 meter seas at 0400
this morning, with the forecast for winds in the
15-25 knot category later today.
Gale force winds are reported in Johnstone
Strait. We
decided to go back to bed and spend the day here at
anchor.
We
launched the dinghy and motored over to Duncanby
Landing, which is now exclusively a fishing lodge
with limited moorage for pleasure boats.
We met one of the owners, Lee, who with her
husband, Syd, have closed the store and liquor store
due to poor sales and the need for the space for
their fishing lodge.
She was very pleasant to talk to and seems
enthusiastic about her summer project, which is
different than the winter job of running a trailer
leasing business, Ocean Transport.
Later
in the day, we were visited by one of the owners of
the old cannery, Tom, who came out in his fishing
boat to welcome us to Goose Bay and tell us that the
cannery was purchased about 6 years ago and they
have new concrete docks that were just installed
last week. They
offer moorage if we are interested.
There is no power at this time, as they run
the whole place on there penderwheel.
They do have a backup generator when needed.
We remained at anchor, but Tom invited us to
come over and have a tour of the place if we wanted.
We
took the dinghy and went to the cannery.
We were met by Jim, another of the owners,
who welcomed us and told us that 30 firefighters
from Burnaby, their friends and relatives, had
purchased the cannery and the 40 acres of land
behind the cannery 6 years ago and have been slowly
fixing it up. They
have done a marvelous job of slowly fixing the
various buildings up, installing new pilings as
needed, and generally cleaning the place up.
They are not in it for a profit, just a fun
project that can be affordable for the owners and
their families.
Each owner is required to put in 15 days of
labor and contribute $100 per month for expenses,
plus occasional assessments to pay for new items.
Eventually, they plan to lease out some of
the old bunk houses to a fishing guide service in
return for a small portion of their profits.
Jim gave us the cook’s tour of the place
and explained how everything used to work and how
they are putting newer technologies in place to make
the place efficient.
Ken
and Karen Klett arrived on the Klettitat in the
early afternoon and anchored near by.
We invited them over for cocktails and dinner
for the evening.
They will accompany us around Cape Caution
tomorrow morning, weather permitting.
Sunday,
August 01, 2010
We
awoke at 0430 to listen to the weather reports for
Queen Charlotte Strait and Egg Island.
The 0400 reports looked favorable with Egg
Island reporting 5 knot winds and 1-2 foot ocean
swells. We
decided to go for it and weighed anchor at 0504 to
begin our transit of Cape Caution with an eventual
destination of Sullivan Bay.
As
we departed Rivers Inlet, we were met by 2-3 foot
ocean swells and heavy dense fog with visibility
less than ¼ mile.
We continued on and as we made the turn to
head for Egg Island and Cape Caution we had the
swells off our starboard bow, which made the ride
pretty comfortable with an occasional heavy roll.
We rounded Cape Caution at 0720 and the
swells began to be on our starboard quarter.
The fog is still very dense, but our ride is
getting smoother and smoother as we progress on our
route. We
rounded Point Boyles and entered Wells Pass at 1119.
The fog has now lifted to about 1 mile
visibility and the seas are smooth.
We called the Burtons on Sea Cloud and found
that they were in Moore Bay.
We decided to meet with them tomorrow, as we
have reservations at Sullivan Bay.
We
arrived at Sullivan Bay at 1222 and were greeted by
Chris, who assisted in tying us up.
Sullivan Bay is not full, but they do have
some very large yachts here for the night.
Evviva arrived and took up most of the outer
dock. I’m
sure that some of the other large yacht owners were
not looking forward to be shown up by Evviva.
All of a sudden, their $3-4 million yachts
look small compared to the $40 million Evviva.
At
1700, they have a cocktail hour get together at the
outdoor deck area for everyone to meet the other
boaters, then they have a 1 hole golf tournament
which consists of each moorage payer to have three
chances to hit a golf ball into an old satellite
dish that has been covered with artificial turf and
anchored about 90 yards off the seaplane dock.
If you get a hole in one, you get free
moorage. No
one hit the dish tonight.
We
joined the Cole’s and went to dinner at the
restaurant. Chris’s
wife, Debbie, runs the restaurant and tonight’s
special was a deep fried turkey dinner.
Today’s
Distance: 63
nm
Distance to date:
1,966 nm
Monday,
August 02, 2010
It’s
foggy and overcast again this morning, but it looks
like this will all burn off by late morning.
The wind is very light from the southeast.
We
departed Sullivan Bay at 1035 and motored down
Sutlej Channel and turned up Kingcome Inlet to Moore
Bay. At
Moore Bay we met up with the Burtons on Sea Cloud.
EJ and Patsy Foote and Bob and Linda
Kimbrough were also anchored in the bay.
We dropped an anchor at 1223 and rafted to
Sea Cloud, then MouseTrap rafted to the other side
of Sea Cloud and ran a stern line to shore.
We
spent the afternoon setting prawn pots, which we
left over night.
Jerry emptied his pots from the night before
and had a pretty good catch.
We ate them for dinner.
Today’s
Distance: 12
nm
Distance to date:
1,978 nm
Tuesday,
August 3, 2010
We
have overcast skies this morning with occasional sun
breaks. The
wind is light and variable and the seas are smooth.
After
pulling our prawn pots, we prepared to move to
Cullen Harbor on the southwest corner of Broughton
Island. The
prawn pots did not provide a good catch, but we did
manage to get a few.
We
weighed anchor at 1045 and headed down to Fife Sound
to Cullen Harbor pulling the dinghy.
We
arrived at 1307 and rafted to Sea Cloud.
Today’s
Distance: 17
nm
Distance to date:
1,995 nm
Wednesday,
August 04, 2010
The
fog is really dense this morning.
We can’t even see the entrance to the
harbor we are anchored in.
We loaded the dinghy and prepared to depart
for Port McNeill.
At 1018, we untied from Sea Cloud and
departed Cullen Harbor for Port McNeill via Queen
Charlotte Strait, turned up Cormorant Channel, and
crossed Broughton Channel into Port McNeill,
arriving at 1232.
As soon as we got into Queen Charlotte
Strait, the fog lifted and the seas were glass
smooth with a slight northwest wind.
The
marina is quite full, but Linda Cole had made
arrangements with the harbormaster, Hiltje, who
tried to hide our spot until we arrive.
They do not take reservations and it is first
come first serve.
We moored on G float at 1235 and hooked to
30A shore power.
Moorage was $53.00 per night, including
power. Hiltje
and her crew are very friendly and helpful, even
offering to come down and handle lines while we
docked.
We
walked up town to find the Laundromat, their hours
of operation and how much change we would need to do
laundry. While
up town, we stopped at Gus’s Pub for lunch and had
their Gus Burger with fries and brown gravy.
Great burger!
Then, it was off to the sporting goods/marine
store across the street.
I bought a new prawn pot to double my chances
at prawn.
For
the evening, the Burtons and Coles joined us as we
dined at the Breakwater Steak House.
Food was pretty good and reasonably priced.
Today’s
Distance: 20
nm
Distance to date:
2,015 nm
Thursday,
August 5, 2010
It
started out as a foggy morning, but quickly burned
off and provided a sunny late morning and afternoon.
Shirley headed for the Laundromat to do
laundry and get a latte.
I broke out the boat washing gear and
proceeded to give the boat deck a good scrubbing.
All those days at Juneau with the purse
seiners and gillnetters starting their dry stack
boats covered the decks with black soot that was
difficult to remove.
We
will stay here in Port McNeill until tomorrow, then
head back to the Broughtons for about a week.